Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe 'La Crau' Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone, France

There are few names as revered in Châteauneuf-du-Pape as Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. Perched atop the famed La Crau plateau, where ancient galets roulés (rounded stones) dominate the landscape, this legendary estate has been crafting benchmark wines for over a century. Now in the hands of the Brunier family’s sixth generation, Vieux Télégraphe remains a standard-bearer for the appellation, delivering wines of remarkable depth, structure, and longevity.

The 2020 vintage encapsulates the estate’s signature style: elegance over power, driven by old-vine Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah, alongside a handful of traditional Châteauneuf varieties. Sourced from vines 60 to 110 years old, this is a wine with immense aging potential, built on a foundation of balance, purity, and a deep sense of terroir.

Product Details:

• Winemakers: Frédéric & Daniel Brunier
• Region: Southern Rhône, France
• Appellation: Châteauneuf-du-Pape
• Vineyard: La Crau Plateau (60 hectares)
• Vine Age: 60–110 years
• Soil: Alluvial deposits, limestone, silica, and molasse (red clay) with galets roulés
• Grape Composition: 65% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, 5% (Cinsault, Clairette, et al.)
• Farming: Practicing organic
• Aging: Aged 10 months in cuves, followed by 12 months in French oak foudres; bottled unfined and unfiltered after 22 months
• Alcohol: 14.5%

Sensory Description:

Deep ruby in color, the 2020 ‘La Crau’ opens with a compelling nose of black cherry, red currant, and dried herbs, layered with hints of olive, sage, and singed incense. On the palate, it is bold yet refined, balancing its concentration of fruit with dusty earth, spice, and a mineral backbone that reflects the stones of La Crau. Firm, grippy tannins provide structure, while a lively acidity carries the wine to a long, resonant finish. A touch of old-school charm lingers, reminding you that this is a Châteauneuf built to age. Though more approachable in its youth than the powerhouse 2019, this vintage still calls for patience—best enjoyed from 2025 to 2035.

Awards & Accolades:

This vintage has earned critical acclaim, reinforcing its position as one of the Rhône Valley’s greats:

• 97 Points – James Suckling (Nov 2023): “This amazing Châteauneuf-du-Pape squares the circle of southern richness and spring-like freshness, despite coming from a very warm and dry vintage. Stony minerality, saltiness, and dried flower character wind through the core of the wine.”
• 96 Points – Decanter (Oct 2021): “Full, generous, and broad, with bright, vibrant acidity and a fine but dense weft of tannins. Great energy and salinity make this particularly fine and balanced.”
• 95 Points – The Wine Cellar Insider (Jan 2023): “Flowers and cherries with a touch of spice form the core of the wine. The fruit is polished, silky, and elegant, with a purity that stands out on the palate.”
• 95 Points – Wine Advocate (May 2022): “Tasted as a tank sample, the 2020 La Crau is a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, and 5% other permitted varieties. About 30% whole cluster inclusion enhances its complexity, giving a layered, old-vine intensity.”
• 94 Points – Jeb Dunnuck (Nov 2022): “A lighter, elegant style that still brings plenty of intensity. Black cherries, mulberries, dried violets, and loamy earth define the bouquet, with a medium-bodied, balanced profile.”
• 94 Points – Vinous (June 2023): “Pronounced aromas of rose petals, redcurrant, and wild strawberry. The wine’s structured yet seamless nature speaks to its pedigree.”

Winemaker’s Background:

The Brunier family has stewarded Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe since 1898, making them one of the most important names in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The estate’s flagship vineyard, La Crau, is among the most sought-after terroirs in the region, known for its galet-strewn landscape that absorbs the sun’s warmth during the day and radiates it at night, ensuring perfect ripening.

Today, Frédéric and Daniel Brunier continue their family’s legacy, crafting wines that balance tradition with modern precision. Their commitment to organic farming, whole-cluster fermentation, and extended aging in large foudresensures that each vintage of ‘La Crau’ remains true to its roots—expressive, structured, and timeless.

Serving Suggestions:

This wine rewards patience, developing even greater complexity with time. If enjoying young, decant for at least 2 hours to soften the tannins and allow the aromatics to fully bloom. Serve at 60–65°F alongside dishes that highlight its Rhône Valley heritage—herb-crusted lamb, wild game, or a classic cassoulet. For an indulgent pairing, try it with aged Comté cheese or a truffle-infused mushroom risotto.